I have been an ex-pat for most of my adult life living, working, learning, and adapting to three different cultures that were not my own. Now I have settled in Albania, I feel more at home than I ever did in my own country and I feel like I am making the transition towards becoming a local, not just a transient foreigner.
If you are coming to live in Albania, or are here already, here is my advice to you.
There is a whole world outside of Tirana. Too many ex-pats I know live in Tirana or another well-known city such as Durres or Sarande, and rarely make any effort to explore. They may venture to the beach once a year but that is about it. They stick to the same parts of town, frequent the same restaurants and bars, and rarely seek to explore what this incredibly diverse and beautiful country has to offer. If reading this makes you feel a bit defensive, I implore you to leave the comfort of your bubble, mix with the locals, have adventures, get lost up a mountain, drink raki in cafe miles from anywhere and explore what the REAL Albania has to offer. Each village, town, and city has different traditions, food, dialects, traditional dress, history, and cultural quirks- try and at least experience some of it. Tirana is not all there is to Albania.
Don’t expect Albania to be like everywhere else you have visited. Albania and even Tirana are completely unique to anywhere else. After decades of being shut off from the world and with tourists and ex-pats only very recently taking an interest in the country, please don’t come here expecting things to be like they are everywhere else. No, you won’t be able to get certain foods/drinks/clothes/medicines/products here, but there is no use in complaining about it. Either bring them with you, get them shipped to you, or find an alternative. Don’t expect Albania to meet every need and whim of every person that sets foot here- it is its own country and I hope it retains its identity for centuries to come.
Try and learn the language. I am sad to say that I know a number of ex-pats who have been here for years and make no effort to learn the language. Yes, Shqip is hard for most of us, but as a guest in the country, the least you can do is learn 10-20 words that will enable you to communicate and show respect. Albanian people love it when foreigners make an effort to learn some words so take a class or two, hit up YouTube or hang out with some Albanians.
Eat and shop local. Albania is blessed with wonderful natural products- from skin and hair care, natural oils, fresh and seasonal produce, handmade and woven goods- the list goes on. Yes, I know Conad and Spar are very convenient but the money you spend there does little to support the local economy, local people, or local producers. There are many shops that offer Albanian products, some of which deliver, and failing that- get out, explore the streets and find the hidden gems where you can do your shopping. The same goes for restaurants- seek out the family-owned, traditional favourites, drink local wine, and ask the waiter to recommend his best local dish.
Don’t complain about things that are rooted in poverty. I once came across a woman bitching in a Facebook group about how woodsmoke in a certain village upset her nostrils. It was explained to her that people burn wood because they cannot afford heating or central heating, nor can they just run an AC yet she couldn’t seem to grasp that her whinging reeked of privilege. I have seen many ex-pats complain about lack of certain services or luxuries, failing to realise that Albania is the poorest country in Europe and maybe, just maybe, it’s not possible to meet the standards you have in your high-income country.
Don’t make too many comparisons. I don’t care what things were like in the last 10 countries you visited, just because it was so in XYZ, doesn’t mean Albania is a bad place because they don’t do the same. There are a time and a place for comparisons but making flippant comments, essentially slagging off Albania for the failure to meet your first world expectations is not on. Constructive criticism is great, but you need to be aware of the complex social, economic, and political matters that impact life in this country.
It’s nice to give something back. I am not here to tell you what to do or to look down on you for not contributing, but please do try and give something back. Trying to find a way to support a local cause, be it animals, people, human rights, or the environment is something I believe we all have a responsibility for. If you want some information on how/where/who to donate your time or money, feel free to contact me and I can make a few suggestions.
Be kind. Life in Albania can be challenging, frustrating, difficult, complicated and stressful but remember, as an ex-pat you probably have it a lot better than a local. Be kind to the country, yes you can criticise but remember the struggles that go on every day here and keep some perspective.
Try and integrate. For the love of god, please try and integrate. Albanian people are awesome- friendly, funny, interesting, and awesome and 99% of them will not bite you. Make some Albanian friends, hang out with them and stop surrounding yourself just with people from your own country.
Recognise your privilege. Chances are you have a strong passport, were educated in a European or US institution, have a good career, have savings and disposable income, and didn’t live through communism or post-communism. You are lucky. I am not saying to throw a pity party for Albanians but if you are an ex-pat living here, you need to recognise your privilege. Around 80% of Albanians want to leave the country due to lack of opportunities, poverty, lacking education opportunities, career reasons, political persecution, corruption etc Please remember that you are lucky and that not everyone here is.
This article was originally published on The Balkanista.
