Just past Dajti Mountain is a mountain village filled with the type of natural beauty that one usually has to travel hours and many kilometers to find. Shengjergj is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream, complete with towering mountains, lingering patches of snow, lakes, and even a couple of restaurants with excellent fresh local fare that will round out any visit. Even better, it’s only an hour or so outside Tirana.
The waterfall is the first stop (but not the last)
The most popular destination in Shengjergj is a waterfall that is clearly marked with a sign as well as by the number of cars parked on the side of the road. Water from nearby Mali me Gropa (Mountain with Holes) feeds the spiraling funnels of water that fall for 30 meters through unusual rock formations of varying colors.
The trail alongside the stream to the base of the waterfall is easy enough to navigate, but a closer look is best for the more intrepid hiker. Recent rains washed out part of the trail so it is rather narrow and requires grabbing onto nearby rocks and roots for stability. That said, it is worth the effort if you’re comfortable with an extra ten minutes on uneven terrain.
If after (or even before) you find yourself hungry or thirsty from a day outdoors, Restorant Ujevara Shengjergj near the entrance of the waterfall trailhead and nestled into the base of one of the mountains is the place to go. They offer delicious traditional local fare and plenty of outdoor seating for those preferring extra social distancing measures during these unusual times—and there is a small playground to keep small children busy if you have young ones in tow. Small tables scattered on the other side of the road, closer to the river, are also an enjoyable place for a coffee.
The village and Rabbit Lake
But many people make the mistake of stopping at the waterfall. There is much more to experience just a little farther up the road built by the government of Albania to open this magical area to tourists.
One of the many hikes organized by the Expats of Albania group is to Liqeni Lepurit (Rabbit Lake) in Shengjergj (year-round population of approximately 2,000). Our outdoor tour guides started our day in the village of Verri. The trail is easy to manage for anyone of any age who wants to spend a few hours in unspoiled nature. It meanders to the village of Shengjergj, which is little more than a few homes surrounding an old mosque.
Just a little further from there is Rabbit Lake, a serene place to stop and bask in the surroundings. When we visited, the lake still had a thin layer of ice and enough snow for someone in our party to lay in and make snow angels, much to the entertainment of the rest of us.
A villager we asked had no idea how the lake got its name and we were unable to see any wild rabbits, but it did not spoil the day in the least.
If you have extra time
Bujtina Vila Disha is a relatively new guesthouse that offers a welcome place to stay and/or to enjoy delicious home-cooked meals. The owner sold his restaurants in Tirana before opening Vila Disha and the hospitality and cooking will not disappoint. I highly recommend the roasted lamb, a local specialty, that comes to the table in a heavy clay pot for all to dive into. And the next time I have a free weekend, I hope to spend a night here and further explore the area.
More about the “100 Villages”
Shengjergj was chosen to be one of Albania’s “100 Villages”, a program launched a few years ago to promote tourism to noteworthy rural areas. Most importantly, at least in my opinion, is this program prompted construction of roads to areas that were previously inaccessible except by four-wheel drive.
In fact, when traveling around Albania, it is worth the time to take detours and visit any of these 100 villages to see the “real” Albania and experience life outside the city.
